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1994-11-13
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Date: Fri, 5 Aug 94 04:30:11 PDT
From: Ham-Ant Mailing List and Newsgroup <ham-ant@ucsd.edu>
Errors-To: Ham-Ant-Errors@UCSD.Edu
Reply-To: Ham-Ant@UCSD.Edu
Precedence: Bulk
Subject: Ham-Ant Digest V94 #248
To: Ham-Ant
Ham-Ant Digest Fri, 5 Aug 94 Volume 94 : Issue 248
Today's Topics:
??? Butternut Stub
chimney mounted verticals
Comet Miracle Baby CH-32
G5RV grounding question
JPole fundamentals
Need Simple UHF Antenna Design
Question: Powerlines surrounding Antenna
THANKS!
Thru-the-Glass Antennas at home
Which telescopic antenna for 2m HT?
Send Replies or notes for publication to: <Ham-Ant@UCSD.Edu>
Send subscription requests to: <Ham-Ant-REQUEST@UCSD.Edu>
Problems you can't solve otherwise to brian@ucsd.edu.
Archives of past issues of the Ham-Ant Digest are available
(by FTP only) from UCSD.Edu in directory "mailarchives/ham-ant".
We trust that readers are intelligent enough to realize that all text
herein consists of personal comments and does not represent the official
policies or positions of any party. Your mileage may vary. So there.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 4 Aug 1994 19:23:59 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!yeshua.marcam.com!insosf1.infonet.net!usenet@network.ucsd.edu
Subject: ??? Butternut Stub
To: ham-ant@ucsd.edu
I recently purchased a Butternut HF6-V used.
The only part missing is the 75ohm matching stub.
Does anyone know what the length of it is???
Any info helpful...
DARKON@ins.infonet.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 94 10:16:16 MST
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!newshub.sdsu.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!yeshua.marcam.com!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!jobone!lynx.unm.edu!dns1.NMSU.Edu!usenet@network.UCSD
Subject: chimney mounted verticals
To: ham-ant@ucsd.edu
On Thu, 4 Aug 1994 14:18:43 GMT,
John D. Walker <jdw@apian.att.com> wrote:
>
>
>I'd like to get some input on mounting a vertical on a chimney (traditional
>TV antenna location). My chimney is in excellent condition and is
>reasonably large (about 4 feet X 3 feet at the top). It is also about
>33 feet tall. I am considering an R5 or R7 or GAP Eagle. Anyone have
>experience (good or bad!) with this type of installation?
John, Be sure you have good ground so that you do not make a lighting rod
out of the chimney/vertical combination, other wise IMHO it should do well.
William Osborne, AA5ZQ 505-646-3919
Professor ECE Dept. PO BOX 30001, Dept. 3-O
New Mexico State University Las Cruces, NM 88003-0001
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 1994 23:54:51 -0800
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!dog.ee.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!apple.com!NewsWatcher!user@network.ucsd.edu
Subject: Comet Miracle Baby CH-32
To: ham-ant@ucsd.edu
I have one, I lose about 2 s-units on 2m and 70cm. It's fine for around
the valley (Santa Clara, CA) As long as you stay realistic in your
expectations you wont be disappointed.
Greg "RotnApple" Reid
In article <CtLz61.AB3@hpcvsnz.cv.hp.com>, davidc@lsid.hp.com (David Cook)
wrote:
> What kind of experiences has anybody had using Comet's CH-32 Miracle Baby HT
> antenna? I know it won't give me the same performance as the already
> inefficient stock rubber duck that came with my HT but what can I reasonably
> expect? Can I accomplish at 2 watts with the CH-32 what I can now do with
> 5 watts and my stock rubber duck or is the CH-32 a real dummy load?
>
> Dave, KB7QCL
RotnApple
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 1994 14:01:46 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!agate!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!eff!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!chpc.utexas.edu!news.utdallas.edu!corpgate!nrtphaa9.nt.com!brtph560!b4pph107!jwittich@network.ucsd.edu
Subject: G5RV grounding question
To: ham-ant@ucsd.edu
Hi Guys. I have a question about lightning protection on a G5RV.
I know the coax is about 70 feet long for a reason. I want to
install a lightning arrestor in the coax. I have a copper plate
on the back of the house, which is grounded, and I want to install
the arrestor there. Should I just plug the existing length of coax
in there and add a piece (about 15 feet) to go from there to
the rig, or should I cut the existing coax so that it remains
its original length, and is grounded about 15 feet from its end?
By *grounded* I mean the shield is grounded via the lightning arrestor,
of course.
Is my whole approach wrong?
thanks, 73, Jeff.
jwittich@b4pph107.bnr.ca
--
*******************************************************************************
jwittich@b4pph107.bnr.ca * BNR claims they know nothing of my
AC4ZO * employment here.
*******************************************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 1994 16:48:40 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!newshub.sdsu.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!yeshua.marcam.com!usc!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!icon!greg@network.ucsd.edu
Subject: JPole fundamentals
To: ham-ant@ucsd.edu
Alan Eldridge (alan.eldridge@dragonbbs.com) wrote:
: Next, I'm going to start working on the Zepp antennas.
Think about this a minute. That's what a J-pole is.
Greg KD6KGW
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 1994 18:29:52 GMT
From: rit!isc-newsserver!ritvax.isc.rit.edu!JGE8874@cs.rochester.edu
Subject: Need Simple UHF Antenna Design
To: ham-ant@ucsd.edu
I'm looking for a simple UHF antenna, designed specifically for
channel 68, which operates at 794 - 800 MHZ. I live at least
60 miles from the transmitting antenna. Thanks for your help.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 1994 04:33:31 GMT
From: elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!nic-nac.CSU.net!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!csus.edu!netcom.com!wa2ise@ames.arpa
Subject: Question: Powerlines surrounding Antenna
To: ham-ant@ucsd.edu
There wasn't an indication as to how far the powerlines are from your
house, but guessing at least 50 feet, they shouldn't have much effect
on transmitting. Usually, you may have more problems with RFI into
your TVs etc, with the antenna in the attic. A vertical antenna might
reduce the noise? You could plant a "flagpole" (vertical desguised
as a flagpole) somewhere in the yard. Or thin guage "invisible"
dipole in the trees. Neighbors probably won't see it or not care much,
as it is not intrusive on the view. Put it up and not transmit for
several months, and the neighbors won't associate it with ham transmitts.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 94 20:19:11 PDT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!dog.ee.lbl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!portal.com!portal!cup.portal.com!AllanWS@network.ucsd.edu
Subject: THANKS!
To: ham-ant@ucsd.edu
Thanks to all who have responded for the query on Inverted V
antennas. Several have pointed out that a full wave (1/2 on a leg)
would NOT be the way to go. Others have suggested to go with a
enclosed loop (vertical delta or square array).
W8UOF gave me some great articles to look up for ideas along the Inv
V lines! If anyone wishes these references, I can repost them to
E-mail.
It has been suggested that the NCJ has the K3LR system might work (a
maypole type antennas are drapped off the tower in several locations).
For ease of construction for right now, I have decided to stick to a
basic Inv V @ 90 feet with a 1/4 wave on a leg (small one! Hi!) and
using the basic and sparse instructions in the ARRL Antenna Book. From
there a switchable array looks to be the next step.
While each station is different, for those who wish a A/B comparison
of the dipole @ 50ft vs the Inv V @ 90ft, I will post my observations
at a later time! Again, thanks for the ideas and warnings!
73 Al N9ISN allanws@cup.portal.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 1994 16:57:39 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!newshub.sdsu.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!icon!greg@network.ucsd.edu
Subject: Thru-the-Glass Antennas at home
To: ham-ant@ucsd.edu
Lawrence *The Dreamer* Chen (lawrence@combdyn.com) wrote:
: I'd like to know if one of those Thru-The-Glass car antennas would work on
: a normal window at home? I have a friend that wants to try a 2m/440 version
: of these at his place. Where he has trouble convincing the XYL the purpose
: of drilling holes in a perfectly good house.
:
One thing to check is if you have insulated "double pane" windows. If so,
I expect the window's thickness will kill any chances of it working.
Although not willing to drill a hole in my new car, I had no problem doing
so with my house. Drill the hole.
Greg.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 1994 20:40:02 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!dog.ee.lbl.gov!agate!spool.mu.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!srgenprp!frankb@network.ucsd.edu
Subject: Which telescopic antenna for 2m HT?
To: ham-ant@ucsd.edu
Vinod Narayanan (vinod@watson.ibm.com) wrote:
& The two candidates I found are the AEA "hotrod" and the
& corresponding MFJ antenna.
& I would like recommendations, experiences etc with the above.
I have both. They both will easily allow you to drop from 2.5 to .5 watts.
The AEA costs about 50% more $$. The AEA has one or two more "sections" so
it is about 2" shorter when collapsed, so it is nicer for carrying around.
They seem to perform identically, and when I looked at the impedence on a
network analyzer they had about the same bandwidth and match, but the MFJ
appeared to be tuned centered in the ham band, and the AEA was a MHz or two
higher. If colapsed size is the issue get the AEA, otherwise get the MFJ.
Also the match goes to hell when the antenna is collapsed, so I won't use
it as a "rubber duck" when not extended (some people say this is ok). If
you want a rubber duck, use one.
--
Frank Ball 1UR-M frankb@sr.hp.com (707) 794-4168 work
Hewlett Packard (707) 794-3844 fax (707) 538-3693 home
1212 Valley House Drive IT175 XT350, Seca 750, '62 F-100, PL510
Rohnert Park CA 94928-4999 KC6WUG AMA DoD #7566 NMLRA I'm the NRA.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 1994 17:55:06 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!newshub.sdsu.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!yeshua.marcam.com!news.kei.com!eff!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.csuohio.edu!vmcms.csuohio.edu!R0264@network.ucsd.edu
To: ham-ant@ucsd.edu
References <310mc0$odu@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>, <cc09Pc3w165w@jackatak.raider.net>, <y7eFkG84KB7Q057yn@suncd.abc.se>.com
Subject : Re: What coax feed to use for 2m antenna
In article <y7eFkG84KB7Q057yn@suncd.abc.se>
m8627@suncd.abc.se (Mats Persson) writes:
>
>In article <cc09Pc3w165w@jackatak.raider.net>, Jack GF Hill wrote:
>> 3) PL-259 connector, *PROPERLY INSTALLED* are the equal of the "N"
>discone specified to work up to 700MHz!
>
>> 4) Not many can PROPERLY install a PL-259, which furthers the myth of
>> their poor performance, and really makes weather a problem.
>
>My experience is that the crimp version is possible to assemble
>properly, but I have never been able to use the solder version
>without frying the cable. How do you do it?
>
>/Mats
I have done a lot over the years, some with success, and some otherwise.
Soldering the center conductor is easy, but the shield is where I have
problems sometimes. It seems to help to rough up the outside of the
connector, around the solder holes, with a file, to get down through the
plating. Then my strategy is to use a really hot iron, to get the heat
on quick, and then get it off quick, before it can penetrate very far
into the cable. A torch can be used, but it is a very delicate
operation, that way. I prefer the more expensive connectors with teflon
insulation, as they can be removed (with a torch) and reused.
-- Phil Emerson
------------------------------
End of Ham-Ant Digest V94 #248
******************************